Every Istanbul itinerary suggests a Bosphorus dinner cruise, and every review is either five stars or one. Having done it several times, here's the honest version: what the evening actually looks like, what the food is really like, and whether it's worth your money.

Picture this: you're sitting alone at a rooftop café in Istanbul, a glass of çay in hand, the call to prayer drifting across the rooftops, and you're thinking, why did I wait so long to do this? This is the guide that gets you there safely, confidently, and with absolutely no regrets.

Hagia Sophia is one of those places photographs cannot prepare you for. Here's a complete visitor guide, from tickets and dress code to the Byzantine mosaics and Ottoman treasures you shouldn't miss.